Zambezi Blogger

Lion Walking

2008-01-25T08:15:00.000-02:00

The Lion Shuffle

Walking with lion cubs is like taking the kids out for a walk.
They are just not that enthusiastic.

Who wants to walk when you can laze around in the shade.

So cubs need some coaxing when it comes to a "lion walk".
Once they get the general idea they walk a few steps - or bound - before collapsing into a furry heap.

And just like children they need discipline.
This is where the NO stick comes in very handy - especially when a lion cub thinks he can nibble away at your trouser leg.

But its the touching, feeling, stroking and even holding a lion cub that makes a lion walk an incredible experience.

Did You Know ?

Puku were first hunted in 1857 by non other than the legendary explorer himself David Livingstone.

A Bird Calender

feathered that is - click on this
http://www.afrizim.com/products/calenders.asp
to download a beautiful printable calender. Its FREE.

Gorgeous Gorges

2007-06-27T05:39:00.000-02:00

the collective name for the series of gorges is known as the Batoka gorge. Here's some details on them.
1st Gorge: the one the Zambezi falls into now
2d Gorge: (spanned by the Victoria Falls Bridge) is 250 m south of falls and 2.15 km long
3rd Gorge: 600 m south and 1.95 km long
4th Gorge: 1.15 km south and 2.25 km long
5th Gorge: 2.55 km south and 3.2 km long
Songwe Gorge: 5.3 km south and 3.3 km long (named after the small Songwe River coming from the north-east, and the deepest at 140 m at the end of the dry season)
Batoka Gorge: below the Songwe - approx. 120 kms long and takes the river through the basalt plateau to the valley in which Lake Kariba now lies.

Sherlock Holmes on Camping

Holmes and Dr. Watson are on a camping trip. They set up their tent and fall asleep. Hours later Holmes wakes up his faithful friend and asks him to look at the sky and tell him what he sees.
Watson replies: I see millions of stars.
Holmes: What does that tell you?
Watson: that there are millions of galaxies and potentially billions of planets. Astrologically speaking it tells me that Saturn is in Leo. Timewise, it appears to be approx. a quarter past three. Meterologically it seems we will have a beautiful day tomorrow.

Exasperated Holmes again asks: What does that tell you? Watson is silent.
Holmes then speaks - Watson, you idiot, it means someone has stolen our tent.

Camping Capers

enjoy all the fun and freedom of a camping safari and still have a tent over your head. Mobile safaris are an exciting and very affordable way of seeing Botswana. Tours also take you across borders into Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe with choices from budget to luxury.

Stargazing

can you imagine there being a sky without stars - a dark and forboding landscape of nothingness. Impossible to imagine but makes you think, doesn't it? Actually if you are a serious star gazer there are a number of ideal places in South Africa including Kruger National Park , the Karoo region and the Waterberg.

au revoir & bon voyage
Zambezi Blogger

David Livingstone Falls

2007-06-26T09:37:00.000-02:00

Excerpt from Livingstone's second visit to the Falls: We landed at the head of Garden Island (now Livingstone Island) situated in the middle of the river and on the lip of the falls. On reaching that lip and peering over the giddy height, the wondrous and unique character of the magnificent cascade at once burst upon us. It is a hopeless task to endeavour to convey an idea of it in words, since an accomplished painter could but impart a faint impression of the glorious scene.

See 2 Believe

If David Livingstone could not describe Victoria Falls, how do we tell you about this awesome natural wonder. It really does have to be seen to be believed and only then will you understand what Livingstone saw.

Golfing with the Giants

listen to the Falls and enjoy a round on a Gary Player designed golf course. The usual obstacles are all there to be encountered: bunkers, water hazards etc. Its the unusual obstacles that present a far more different challenge as elephants, waterbuck and impala can also be found enjoying the greens with you.

With the economy being what it is in Zim, at golf courses, golfers pay for their drinks before they set off on their round, because the price will have gone up by the time they have finished the 18th hole.

Stay & Play

Victoria Falls is the catalyst for many of the areas adventure activities and rightly has the reputation as Africa's adventure capital with over 50 activities and safaris to enjoy.

Dumela Botswana

Botswana's Chobe national park is approx. 80 kms from Victoria Falls - another one of those MUST SEEDO. Why? Because Chobe is home to the largest herd of elephants in Africa and with some 120 - 150 000 of the gentle giants on the move this is an AWESOME sight much as Vic Falls is.

au revoir & bon voyage
Zambezi Blogger

African Adrenaline

2007-06-25T11:53:00.000-02:00

sounds like a cocktail or is it a rock group?

As the adventure capital of Africa, Victoria Falls pumps
adventure and adrenaline 365 days a year. But there's a whole lot more
going on in Zimbabwe's Victoria Falls.

Numbering Days
there is talk that the power that be - may well not be (in power
that is). Signs on the ground indicate that there will be a
"Vacant" sign on his office door by the end of the year.

Commentators are predicting an inflation rate of 1.5 million
percent, by year-end. Observers are observing that the chances of
the government surviving the imminent collapse of the economy are slim.

The Good News
Zimbabwe is on the threshold of change and donor countries including
its former colonial power have already drawn up a list of Zimbabwe's
needs (about US$3 billion over 5 years) to stabilise the country's economy.

Falls in Tourism
tourism figures have been affected over the past few years. Fears
of safety and shortage of fuel supplies had tourists looking across
the bridge at a different option, although perhaps a more costly option.

At present Victoria Falls is a cheap budget holiday destination -
but next year when the dust has settled on the economy - prices will
rise. Visit NOW while it is still affordable.

Yet Victoria Falls (the one that offers the 70% view of the Falls)
continues to be a MUST SEEDO for travelers.

Mind Blowing Victoria Falls
choose from a wide variety of tour packages and special offers
available throughout the year

You should know
it is a safe and inexpensive destination enjoy over 50 activities and safaris
1 hour and 30 minute flights from Johannesburg and you are in Vic Falls
stay at elegant hotels quality bed and breakfasts - romantic safari lodges
dine out in fine restaurants - pizzas - bistros - food courts and steakhouses
witness some of the world's greatest elephant herds

au revoir & bon voyage
Zambezi Blogger

The Fab 4

2007-02-27T11:18:00.000-02:00

Day 1 of 4
Four days of fun and adventure await in the adrenaline capital of the world.

A short 1.5 hours flip from O R Tambo/Johannesburg International airport and we have landed at Victoria Falls airport.

Customs is a relatively easy and painless experience and then onwards to the Rainbow Hotel where we will park ourselves and luggage

Victoria Falls is a small town - very easy to get around and dominating the town is the awesome spectacle of the Victoria Falls themselves.
Use this map to help get your bearings.

It must be lunchtime as there are deep and troubling noises coming from the area of my stomach.
The Pizza Bistro in the Shoppers Arcade (Parkway) would be a good choice, or the Crock and Paddle serve good wholesome pub meals.

Victoria's Views

You never get tired of seeing the Victoria Falls - no matter what time of year - no matter how wet you get from the spray - its one of those experiences which is MUST DO.
DYK: you will see 70% of the Falls from the Zimbabwe side.

Try and give the correct denomination for the entrance fee as you might not get change. As you stroll along the pathways the Falls present different aspects and views - from the Devils Cataract to the Main Falls - this thundering mass of water is just awesome.

Recently introduced is the Victoria Falls Bridge Tours - a fantastic new activity on and around the Bridge.

After we had absorbed as much as we could of the Falls and Rainforest, we headed for the Victoria Falls Hotel.

Colonial Croquet ?

The Victoria Falls Hotel was built in 1904 and about that time the clock stopped (at least for the hotel).
Every picture, every room and hallway of this beautiful hotel exudes the colonial era ambience of elegance and charm.
Did I hear someone ask "Is it time for high tea"

A bounty at the Boma

The evening's entertainment is a night out at The Boma. Another MUST DO.
Why? Well to begin with the cuisine is varied from traditional Zimbabwean dishes as well as a selection of fish and game meats. Vegetarians are not forgotten.
Warm traditional greetings followed by the hand washing ceremony then we were offered traditional beer and snacks.
The stomach said "thank you".

Background to all the dining and wining was the pulsating rhythm of Ndebele and Shangaan dancers. Need your fortune told - the resident witchdoctor will throw the bones and tell you what's in store.
Be entralled as the Sangoma relates African folk tales and if you have hair - have it braided in true African style.

Tip: make sure you book in advance - its very popular. The Boma is a very inter-active experience, the more you put in the more enjoyment you will get out.

Bush Whacking with Elephants

2007-01-13T10:13:00.000-02:00

Horses and Elephants

A horse mad friend recently asked me how do you ride an elephant? At first I thought said friend might have had too much Christmas bubbly, but the question intrigues so here goes.

Firstly its easier than riding a horse – at least an elephant will not go careening off into the bush at the speed of light, hurtling itself and you over life threatening obstacles – all the time you hanging on for dear life and praying like you never prayed before.

So relax an elephant back safari is a much more sedate affair. In fact it is a wonderful experience and a never to be forgotten memory of being so close to the gentle giants.

Elephant Riding Lessons

There are some logistical problems which first need to be negotiated. No. 1 logistical problem – how do you climb aboard a 3 m high (about 10 ft) 6000 kg animal?

Quite easy really – you climb up a few steps to a wooden scaffold. The elephant is then led over to the scaffold allowing you to “mount”. There are even stirrups if you wish to use them. The elephant’s handler (mahout) is the first on the elephant.

Once everyone feels comfortable then off you go on the experience of a lifetime.

Do the elephant walk

The elephant ride is a slow rhythmic sway with frequent stops while the ellie eats at one end, and delivers at the other end.

These elephants are not circus trained but they are trained from about 2 years of age. It is only when they are about 8 or 9 years that they are allowed to take people on safari.

Cool Reception

On arrival at the elephant camp you are welcomed by the trainers and handlers and there is always a cold one of all descriptions ready for you. I like this civilized way of doing things.

While quenching the African thirst a brief safety talk is given. At all times you are requested to hold onto the strap in front of you. You can also hold on to the dishy Brad Pitt lookalike – if he happens to be on board.

The trek takes you through the African bush and whilst there are no raging waters to navigate, the elephant will have to negotiate some dongas. If the elephant is moving “uphill” then lean forward and if moving “downhill” then lean backwards.

These positions just help the elephant and keep the weight more evenly balanced.

Safety rules

There are a couple of things you should be aware of. Never try to jump or slide off the elephant. If you wish to get off at any time, just pass the message to the mahout. An armed guard accompanies the safari and there is also a first aid kit on the ride.

Birds Eye View

High atop the elephant you get a totally different view of the bush – bird watching just got better.

Actual time on the back of the ellie is about 40 minutes and at the end you dismount (roughly the same procedure as mounting). At the end of your bush trek its time to thank your elephant host and to interact with the giant.

Pelleting the elephant

A favourite treat for them are game cubes – these are small game pellets full of nutritional value and other good healthy things.

Of course the elephant has a never-ending appetite so he needs feeding like all the time.

You can feed the elephant from your hand – or drop them into his mouth. Make sure to disengage hand from elephant mouth after each mouthful. Stroke behind their ears and really interact with them. These are great moments for some photographic or video shots.

Let’s face it – you need the evidence to show your family and friends that you really did ride an African elephant in Victoria Falls.

Happy New Year

2007-01-09T05:21:00.000-02:00

Its January and time to wish all readers a happy new
year or happy January - well happies anyway for 2007.

Sun and Snow

For those readers living in lands where the snow lays all around and freezing certain parts of their anatomies off - let your imagination wander to tropical climes, of hot sunny days and sultry nights.

Cast aside doom and gloom - summer holidays are a mere click away.

What am I rambling about? We're talking exotic locations - of adventure safaris
in sunny Africa - of camping safaris in the African wilderness.

Forget your boy scout/girl guides camps. These mobile camping safaris range from luxury to full participation.

In plain English

a luxury safari means enjoying the African bush with all the creature comforts that you are used to. Full participation means that you get to do the dishes - it also means you get to cook the meal, and then do the dishes.

Cook Outs

Whichever you choose - its great fun and is truly the best way to explore and experience the wilderness at first hand.

I think I'll opt for the semi participation. This way I get to do the cooking - but no dish washing.

By the way: these camping safaris are also a very cost effective way of travelling through Botswana, the Caprivi and Zambia.

Safari Savvy

2006-11-25T03:55:00.000-02:00

Everyone does it - safari I mean.

Safari means journey - originally from the Arabic
safar - and todays modern safari allows you to
photograph and view big game and other wild wildlife.

A safari conjures up visions of khaki clad game rangers -
well versed in the ways of the bush as well as its
flora and fauna.

Besides being men of great knowledge of the wild they
are also experts at mixing a mean g & t.

As the day breaks you wake up to coffee and rusk
(a traditional morning pre breakfast snack) before
wrapping up warmly and climbing on board the
game viewing vehicle.

Have you ever done a game drive and you know the
ellies are in the vicinity because you have seen
and smelt their fresh droppings - but they remain
invisible to you.

16 out of 24 hours a day is spent collecting food - so
chances are pretty good that you could hear them
before you see them.

Botswana has a lot of elephants - tens of thousands in fact.
The Chobe elephant forms part of what is thought to
be the largest surviving continuous population of
elephants.

During the dry season they will stay around the Chobe and
Linyanti rivers dispersing with the onset of the rains.

A Baines Eye View of the Falls

2006-11-22T04:52:00.000-02:00

Its 1858 and Livingstone is viewing the awesome spectacle
that he was to name Victoria Falls.

John Thomas Baines had been appointed the artist to
Livingstone's expedition to the Zambezi.
After quarrelling with Livingstone Baines was unfairly
discharged for theft.

Its now 23 July 1862 and Baines is on another expedition
to Victoria Falls.

He has come to clear his name but Dr. Livingstone
has moved on.

However it is on this expedition that he was to paint
many of the famous scenes of the Victoria Falls and
Zambezi river.

Baines was certainly not an under-achiever.
Scenic and portrait artist, cartographer, diarist and scientific
observer of fauna and flora, he was also an explorer,
store keeper and writer.

The Thomas Baines Nature Reserve in the Eastern Cape (South Africa)
is named after the illustrious man who left invaluable
records of the diversity of fauna and flora in the region
including the now extinct guagga.

It was not only southern Africa that he explored, he headed up
an expedition to northern Australia to explore the Victoria
River.
For his contribution Mount Baines and Baines River
are named in honour of him.

The Stanley of Livingstone

2006-11-20T11:32:00.001-02:00

Henry Morton Stanley had a job to do and that
was find Dr. Livingstone.
Livingstone was somewhere in Africa and there
was a story to be told.

But I run ahead of myself.
Stanley was not always Stanley.
Born John Rowlands in Denbigh, Wales - at the age of 18
he made his way to the United States.
He was later to take the name Stanley from a wealthy
American trader whom he had befriended.

Military service in the American Civil War was followed
by a journalism career and Stanley soon became a favourite
with James Gordon Bennett,
Bennett was the founder of the New York Herald and it was
Bennett's son who instructed Stanley to find Dr. Livingstone.

Arriving in Zanzibar where a search expedition was outfitted,
Stanley and his expedition started off on 21 March, 1871.

10 November 1871 at a small village on the shore of Lake Tanganyika,
Mr. Stanley finds an old man with a white beard.
Raising his hat he greets the Doctor with the immortal words
"Dr. Livingstone, I presume".

Livingstone today is a booming tourism town.

Vying for the tourist dollar and the real estate around the
Zambezi river are hotels, waterfront lodges, bush camps,
action and adventure safari companies.

Creating quite a stir is a new development of more hotels,
chalets and golf course in the Mosi oa Tunya National Park.

Not sure if this is the legacy Livingstone had in mind
when he said "No one can imagine the beauty of the view
from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen
before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been
gazed upon by angels in their flight".

Common sense versus Carnivores

2006-11-09T07:15:00.000-02:00

Please do yourself a huge favour and check out road conditions
before attempting to drive long distances in any African country.

When we did finally make it to Chipata - what lay ahead
was another 3 gruelling hours of driving.
Was it the geriatric in us that said - enuff's enuff.
Or was it plain common sense - whoever spoke to us said
turn around.
So we did.

Lions, leopards, wild dog, jackal, caracal and serval are just
some of the park's carnivores.
Large elephant herds as well as buffalo, hippo, zebra, giraffe,
impala, puku, eland and duiker are also residents at
South Luangwa.

So we will come again another time to South Luangwa but
next time we take the plane - a much better idea.

Livingstone - named after the Doctor himself - sits on the
Zambian side of the Victoria Falls.

Any visitor to the Falls wants to be as close to the Falls
as is possible - if not a birds eye view then pretty close.
Thus there are hotels and lodges close to the Falls.

Miles upstream there are also safari lodges overlooking the
Zambezi as she tumbles along on her way to the chasm.

Livingstone is growing as a favoured tourist destination.
This at the expense of Victoria Falls but that's another story.

Good quality bed and breakfast accommodation can also be found
in the town centre.

We opted for the Zambezi Waterfront.

Day 6 - Mythbusters

2006-11-07T11:38:00.000-02:00

Before heading into Zambia we need to stock up on
fuel - fuel for the car and fuel for the humans.

Well we got fuel without a hitch and we also got foodstuffs
and other provisions.
There goes another media myth about avoiding travel
in Zimbabwe.

So here we come Zambia - a couple of geriatric gypsies in
search of adventure.

Zambia has 19 wildlife reserves - there must be adventure
there.
Some are well known such as Lochinvar, Kafue and South Luangwa.
Others not so famous. In our geriatric wisdom we opted for the well known ones.

By the way - Zambia is a BIG country - 752,614 sq. km
to be exact.
It is the 39th-largest country in the world (after Chile)
and is slightly larger than the US state of Texas.

So big country means BIG roads.
Not a lot of them but easy enough to remember.
The Great North Road (self explanatory) and the Great Eastern
Road which runs roughly from Lusaka to Malawi (or thereabouts).

Once you have safely worked your way through the hussle and
bustle of Lusaka - set a heading of 570kms east to
Chipata (this is the turn off to South Luangwa).

Now do the maths. Travelling at a steady 80 kmph means
that it should take about 7 hours to get there.
Wrong.

There are potholes along the way - which need some skilful
Schumacher driving to negotiate.

In Africa elephants have right of way - as do the goats, cattle,
horses, pedestrians etc. etc.
Potholes and elephants aside, the scenic beauty of the country is
awesome but 7 hours ??? later and still no Chipata insight.

Day 5 - Kariba Floods

2006-11-03T12:34:00.000-02:00

Its time for reflection which is a good excuse to do just nothing
but sit and watch.

Looking out over the Kariba floodplains there are quite a few
pods of hippos.
I wonder if these pods live in perfect harmony or do they
get terribly territorial and have hippo-big arguments.

Scanning the skies two large groups of vultures came into view.
Difficult to identify who was who in the vulture zoo but
easily identifiable were the marabou storks - circling high
above the vultures.

When birds of prey start descending then you can be pretty sure
there is a carcass on the ground.

In synchronised aerial ballet the vultures circled and circled
until out of sight and heading for Zambia.

Back to the pods.
As the day warmed up so did hippo tempers.
Nothing too serious just a few noisy neighbourly clashes.

Crocodiles lazed along the banks while buffaloes wandered
across the plains and elephants swam from island to island.

Peaceful scenes in paradise but its now time to move on.

Day 4 - Gone Fishin'

2006-11-02T12:25:00.000-02:00

Kariba is houseboat country with hundreds of boats moored at the
numerous harbours.

Boats come in all sizes and shapes from cruisers - sails - pontoons to
paddle steamers.

Houseboat cruises on the lake can vary from 2 nights up to
5 or 6 - depending on where you want to go and how big the budget is.

If cruising during the summer months then airconditioning would
be a top priority.
Alternatively sleep on the top deck under the stars and enjoy
nature's own airconditioning.

Bring the fishing gear, the first aid box (alias the big cooler
box for keeping the dark liquids cold), binoculars, sunhat and
suncream.

Cruising is meant for sheer relaxation and idyllic : game view or fishing during the
cool early mornings or late afternoon, laze around the pool during the
heat of the day.

Cruising is also ideal for conferences and product launches.
A houseboat destination for weddings and honeymoons are also becoming
more and more popular.

DAY 3 - CHARARA -LAKE KARIBA

2006-11-01T09:14:00.000-02:00

Fish Tales and Lake Tigers:
We reluctantly bid au revoir to the island paradise and our next
port of call was Charara - also in Kariba's eastern basin.

From near and far they come in their hundreds drawn by the lure
(forgive the pun) of catching the famously fighting Tigerfish.

This is none other than the annual Tiger Fishing Competition held
in October.

You don't have to be a champion fisherman or woman to fish these
waters teeming with tiger,bream and vundu.

As most travellers know - elephants have right of way.
You can understand why - their sheer size and numbers makes it difficult to
argue the case.
I also think hippos should have right of way - especially when they
are out of water and on terra firma.

It is a myth to think hippos only venture out at night in search
of food.
In South Africa and Zimbabwe we have seen these big fellas out and about -
generally munching away and quite far from water.

Around the NAUZ a number of dustbins had been upended.
The locals are trying to identify who the culprit is.

Their list of suspects is:
a) a young elephant
b) an old hippo
c) monkeys or baboons
d) none of the above

The answer is actually ( a ) and the culprit is still at large.

The approach of breeding time (muskth) and the bull elephant only has
one thing on his mind and that's the cute females he has been
eyeing on the other side of the bank.

Day 2 - Gorges and Gorgeous Eagles

2006-10-24T13:21:00.000-02:00

The day broke with blue skies beckoning.

Continuing our lets do the "touristy" things we
decided to take the boat across the lake to Sanyati
gorge.

As the breakfast gong was still hours away this
seemed like a good idea at the time.

Early morning on lake kariba is cold with a capital COLD.
The waters were choppy and I was glad we had not
eaten breakfast as it surely would have landed up in
the lake.
Brave tourists that we were and also not being able
to walk on water we remained on board and endured the crossing.

Travelling up the Sanyati river through the Gorge was
another unforgettable experience.
Sanyati is a deep ravine of stark granite cliffs.
Eerie and breathtaking with the silence punctuated by the cry
of the fish eagle - he was obviously also still looking for
breakfast.

Plumes of smoke were the giveaway signs that poachers were in the
vicinity.

There were birds in the gorge but of the LBJ variety (little brown jobs). Unmistakable though was the hauntingly beautiful cry of the fish eagle.

With thoughts of breakfast now uppermost on our itinerary of
"what to do next" we headed back across the lake which by
now was calm.

Casting an eye around we saw lots of kapenta boats studded
across the lake.
These small sardine-like fish provides a high protein food for
the local people of Zimbabwe and is also used as bait.

After a hearty breakfast it was time to move on and continue
our quest in paradise.

Day 1 - Paradise Found on Remote Tropical Island in Africa

2006-10-22T06:43:00.000-02:00

He said it was like living in paradise.
Paradise in Zimbabwe? uh - you gotta be kidding.

Well here's the lowdown on paradise according to a fella who lives on the Island of Spurwing.
Get out the map/atlas or goto wikipedia and look up Kariba and there in the eastern basin you will find paradise.

This tropical island is surrounded by huge expanses of calm blue waters a.k.a. lake kariba.

To complete the pic of paradise - throw in blue skies - waters teeming with fish - awesome scenery and I can see why for some Spurwing is indeed paradise.

But there's more he said.
Let's go and find some wildlife. Whoa there boy - let's keep this clean.
Oh you mean wildlife as in elephants, buffalo, crocodiles, hippos, zebra, giraffe lean and mean lions.

Well a game drive led by experienced highly knowledgeable man of the wild, found us the wildlife which just had to be shot (with the camera of course).

A bar is meant for socialising and the one at Spurwing is in the shape of a "V' - specially designed so that you can keep an eye out and see what everyone is drinking and also an ear out for what everyone is talking about.